Now that you understand your irrigation systems & zone, you’ve had a landscape assessment, and you made a general plan for what you want your landscape to look like, it’s time to get rid of your turf grass! Here are some important factors to consider: Maintaining soil structure and soil microbiology. Protecting above-ground insects & wildlife. Ease of use Expense. Length of time. There are quite a few ways to remove your landscape, however, none of the options are able to meet all of the conside
This method is a relatively fast, cheap and easy way to kill your lawn. It maintains the soil’s structure and microbiology and leaves the organic content (dead grass and roots) in place to decompose. Because you are not disturbing the soil, weed seeds are not brought to the surface to germinate. You may need to apply the herbicide 2-3 times, 2-3 weeks apart. Click here to decide if you are comfortable with the possible health and ecological risks. Read and follow the label instructions!
Water thoroughly and cover the area you want to kill with clear plastic, making sure that the edges are sealed. Leave it there for 4-8 weeks. This method is most effective in the hottest months (June - August). It is not aesthetically pleasing, but it is a low-effort option. Leave the dead grass or rake it up. Avoid disturbing the weed seed bank by not tilling it. Research has shown that there is only a temporary reduction in soil microbial activity.
Withhold water from the area to stress the grass. Mow it as close as possible, then cover the area with compost and an 8-12” layer of wood chips. Water well to encourage decomposition. Many gardening sites recommend using layers of newspaper or overlapping pieces of cardboard. This will slow down an already lengthy process, and it temporarily reduces soil microbial activity which is important for soil and plant health. Be aware that this will take a season or more and still may not kill it all
Water the area thoroughly to soften the soil. Dig up the grass, thatch and roots. Then cover with soil and mulch. This method is a quick solution, depending on the size of the area, and it allows you to plant immediately. However, it is difficult work, and you are removing beneficial organic material. It also disturbs the soil’s structure and brings weed seeds to the surface where the warmth and moisture will germinate them.
Till 24 hours after rain when the soil is warm and damp. Start with a shallow setting to slice the sod, using increasing depths to break up the clods of grass, soil, and roots. It is best to till in the fall when the grass can return nitrogen to the soil. In the spring, grass and weeds may regrow as the weather gets warmer. A tiller can be heavy, noisy, and smelly, but you can plant immediately. This method does destroy soil structure and can propagate weeds like bindweed and Canada thistle.
First, mow and water your lawn. Cut overlapping strips of sod and roll them up. Cut strips short enough to be moved easily. This method is quick but requires heavy equipment and leaves you with rolls of sod. You can figure out how to get rid of them, or you can flip the sod over to decompose in place, keeping the organic matter in your yard or garden. You then treat it like the ‘mow and cover’ method. To look into renting a sod cutter click here.
Unless you are looking for a DIY project, you will most likely be contracting a landscape or irrigation company to achieve your landscaping goals. We recommend that you contact them as soon as possible as resources can be limited.
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